Gelephu Mindfulness City for Bhutanese

The world has made remarkable strides in the last few decades, advancing more in the last fifty years than it did in the previous fifty thousand. But this progress has come at a significant cost. We have traded much for it: wars, environmental destruction, cultural erosion, and the loss of core human values. While we recognize these consequences and strive for redemption, we've come so far that turning back seems impossible. No one seems willing to take the lead to reverse the damage and make it all worthwhile. Even those with the heart to do so often lack the freedom or resources. As a result, the world's best efforts to heal the planet—through climate funds, green economies, carbon credits, and similar initiatives—fall short of making a meaningful impact.

In times like these, when a monarch from a sovereign nation proposes to build an entire city spanning over a thousand square kilometers centered around mindful living, it’s no wonder the world is taking notice. The sheer audacity of such a dream, impossible elsewhere, makes it all the more captivating. Here, it’s possible because His Majesty the King is a visionary and entrepreneurially driven, selfless and compassionate, revered by his people, respected by his government, and admired by world leaders. He possesses all the qualities needed to dare such a dream, which is why the world is pausing to listen to our King.

While I don’t claim to fully grasp how Gelephu Mindfulness City (GMC) will influence the world, though it’s clear that the world needs a model for mindful living, and GMC offers that potential. Over time, a wealth of knowledge will emerge about its global significance. For now, I want to focus on how GMC will transform Bhutan and touch the lives of every Bhutanese. Let me break down the grand royal vision into smaller, more relatable opportunities that are being prepared for us by our King.

Employment Opportunities

A carpenter friend from my village recently asked me how he could find a job in the construction of GMC. From the construction phase onward, GMC will create employment opportunities on an unprecedented scale. Tens of thousands of skilled and unskilled workers will be needed to build the city. Bhutanese workers will have a clear advantage because the city will largely be wood-based, with Bhutanese architecture at its core, making our carpenters highly sought after. The international nature of the project, offering wages far higher than what we’re used to, will make it an attractive alternative to working abroad. With its proximity and other benefits, GMC will become a competitive option, one that can transform lives here and bring back many of those who have left for jobs overseas.

Once the city is operational, I imagine the airport alone will employ thousands. With hundreds of flights landing and taking off, it will be one of the busiest airports we’ve ever known, creating limitless economic opportunities. Reflecting on my observations of Suvarnabhumi Airport in Thailand, it’s possible that one person from every Bhutanese family could find employment there.

It’s said that thousands of Bhutanese are currently working in Australia. If ordinary cities with ordinary populations can create such appealing jobs for our people, imagine what GMC—home to the world’s wealthiest, seeking peace and happiness—could offer. Working for these elites will be so desirable that those whom Bhutanese work for in Australia may consider coming here. With a projected population of a million high-end residents, the opportunities will be abundant. Numerous businesses within GMC will need thousands of employees. However, bear in mind that GMC will require skilled, certified, and professional workers. We have time to prepare ourselves—either become professionals or watch professionals from elsewhere fill those positions.

Education

Back in the early 2000s, thousands of Bhutanese students pursued degrees in Bangalore, India. More recently, affluent Bhutanese families have sent their children to premium schools in Sikkim, Thailand, or even the US and Europe. Government scholarships have also facilitated foreign education. The floodgates truly opened when studying in Australia became popular, with the added advantage of earning while learning.

When GMC establishes world-class colleges and schools in Gelephu, we can expect the world to desire education here. Gelephu could become the “Oxford of Asia,” attracting top students from across the globe. That’s when the tide will turn for us. Bhutanese will benefit—whether through scholarships or by earning in the city and studying there. Australia might then wonder why Bhutanese are no longer applying for visas.

Agriculture

Bhutan has long been recognized as an agricultural country. But when we entered the global market, we realized the limitations of our traditional practices. We were constrained by many factors, accustomed to subsistence farming. Growing only for our own families, the food market caught us off guard. Gradually, we learned to grow more for income, but Indian imports outcompeted us on our own soil. Despite improvements in seeds and methods, we struggled with scale—unable to produce enough to meet significant demand. Even the entire country couldn't supply a single hotel chain. When farmers grew the same crops in large quantities, the market price would drop, leaving us confused and discouraged.

With GMC, Bhutan can finally embrace agriculture as a viable way of life. The city’s demand for high-value, organic, and ethically grown food will make price less of an issue. With such demand, the risks of growing crops will be worth taking. Furthermore, we can scale our farming, knowing that demand will only increase as long as we maintain high standards.

The fallow lands we see in many villages today will soon become valuable assets as GMC seeks its food supply from Bhutan's fields. Our pristine environment and proximity will give us a distinct advantage, leading to a major transformation in agriculture.

Tourism

When Gelephu becomes home to investors from around the world, they will occasionally want to explore Bhutan. This will inject millions into our local economy. Many investors will also invest in Bhutan through the new FDI policy, creating even more opportunities. Tour companies, hotels, guides, drivers, handicraft shops—everyone in the tourism sector will see a surge in business.

Those coming to GMC for education, medical treatment, business, or wellness won’t just head home once they’re done. They’ll be encouraged to explore Bhutan for a few days.

Don’t worry about whether there will be enough tourists or how to capitalize on this influx—just start preparing. Learn Chinese, Japanese, French, or another major language. Sharpen your hospitality skills. Consider what unique products or services you can offer.

Healthcare Services

The healthcare sector will also experience a sea change. Like education, Bhutanese have historically sought better medical care abroad. Even with free healthcare in Bhutan, those who could afford it often sought treatment in India, Thailand, or the US. The government, too, has spent millions referring patients for treatments unavailable locally.

GMC will become a hub for world-class medical services. Renowned hospitals from across the globe will establish branches there, drawn by the ease of doing business, access to the market, pristine environment, and mindfulness culture, which is the foundation of healing. Just as Silicon Valley became the epicenter of the tech world, GMC will attract the healthcare industry like a queen bee.

This will position GMC as a destination for medical tourism, boosting the overall tourism industry but, more importantly, revolutionizing healthcare in Bhutan. We’ll have access to world-class medical care within our own country, and if we need specialized treatments, GMC will be just a few hours away. Those who can afford private care will pay for it, while the rest will benefit from the referral system we’ve always relied on.

A country that has long lost hard currency to medical referrals abroad will finally see those wounds healed, transforming scars into stories of resilience for future generations to share.

*This article is first published in The Bhutanese on 19th Oct 2024

Monsoon Lessons

Now that the monsoon has passed and things are gradually falling in place, it’s time to look back and reflect. John Dewey said, ‘we do not learn from experience, we learn from reflecting on experience.’ 

Last month we saw what could be easily called the worst monsoon in many years. Sarpang town was wiped from the face of the earth. Two southern towns of Gelephu and Phuntsholing spent many sleepless nights. Samtse lost a critical bridge. Road network across the country was disrupted. Our country suffered huge losses in damages.

But in these bad times we saw the most heartwarming responses from our men in uniform across the country volunteering in rescue efforts. We saw them putting public safety ahead of their own. In them we saw heroes we could always rely on in times of need.

In the middle of confusion in the south, where the fury of nature had left everyone helpless we saw the selfless leadership of our King and the Prime Minister. The kind of leadership the rest of the world could only pray for.

Pic: His Majesty's Official Page

However, far away from the affected areas, here in the capital city we saw the other side our people, the not-so-good side. With road connection to the south blocked at several points, assumptions of fuel shortage created havoc. Avalanches of cars rushing at the fuel pumps to hoard fuel.

The endless queue of cars only showed how embarrassingly selfish we could become in the face of disaster. Everyone wanted their own tanks to be filled, disregarding the need of the fellow citizens. No one seemed to think that if our country at all suffered from fuel crisis we were all in it together.

Pic: The Bhutanese Facebook Page

Despite the comforting official announcement against the problem the ugly rush continued at all depots for days. We believed more in the hoax. Of course what more can we expect from the population that once believed in the salt shortage rumor? Some families may not have finished the salt they selfishly hoarded that day in 2013.

Besides the fuel hoarding, we also heard stories of taxi drivers overcharging desperate travellers and we saw local vegetable vendors doubling the price of their produce in the absence of competition from imported vegetable. These are some qualities that make us not Bhutanese.

We Bhutanese are by nature harmonious social beings. That makes us stand out in the big blue world despite our smallness. But why do we act like some ghosts possessed us in times like this? Why do we become so selfish suddenly?

Now that the roads are cleared as promised and that we didn’t run out of fuel, what have we learned? Even if we weren’t in queue at the fuel pump, or had anything to do with the opportunist vegetable vendors and taxi drivers we are all equally guilty in this. Remember what Albert Einstein said,

‘The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don’t do anything about it.’

This article is published in Business Bhutan on 6th August 2016

Gelephu Airport- the Biggest Photo Studio

Another Landmark place to visit in Gelephu is of course the Airport. It's a few minutes drive from the Gelephu town on Sarpang Highway. You will be surprised at the security system there- the gate is unmanned and open, you can drive your car on to the runway. It feels very empty to see a brand new facility so deserted, there is not a structure to be seen anywhere within view, forget any aircraft.

Since no plane is landing, I landed there!

The dream of an airport in Gelephu remained on the pillow for ages, but that dream somehow seemed so sweet to me now when I look at the vastness of the plain. If Bhutan wants an airport of international standard Gelephu has the scope. Of course Paro will always remain our iconic airport.

I don't know why Gelephu is so shy about growing. Nothing seemed to have worked well here. It's such a waste of this beautiful place. Even the airport is more like a photo studio, where people come with cameras take picture in different pose.

This is the last post I am writing from Gelephu. But I have some more to write about this place when I reach home. I have been here for 24 days and tomorrow morning at 8 am PaSsu Diary is Signing out from Gelephu.
.

The Art and Science of Tshachu

Gelephu Tshachu is the only tshachu I have ever been too, therefore I am assuming other tshachus are more or less of same architectural design. The unwelcoming design of the low-roof shed, and suffocating thick walls around the congested pools don't seem to have any element of art at all. But on the second thought there seems to be a form of art typical to pre-modern Bhutan, which is based on the science Bhutanese understood very early in time.

The Tshachu is under that low Green Roof

There is physics in the circular shape of the ponds, circle is the most accommodating shape. They had to choose circle because they could not build bigger pool for another scientific reason-the science of preserving heat. It led to keeping pools small with thick high walls and even the low roof of the shed. Though it seem like a typical Indian well, sometimes even resembling oven at the cremation ground, they seemed have crafted the best of art relevant during their time with the science that is timeless.

See any aesthetics? Look who is with me. She says people are stinking, I had to explain what was smelling. 

What is disappointing about the evolution of Tshachu is that it didn't evolve with time. It remained frozen. It's time something is done about the architecture of Tshachu. It has become one very important wellness tourist destination for Bhutanese and it's time we place some importance on our own people too.

Modern architecture should intervene and create space and convenience. The pools should be enlarged to accommodate as many people to reduce the waiting time and avoid indecent rushing. The heat science should be taken care by glass walls and wooden tubs. Introducing glass technology will transform the aesthetics of the place with sufficient light and much needed hygiene.

It's also time to pay attention to the huge drains that pose safety risk and adequate amenities should be put in place to avoid gender awkwardness while changing.

To be continued, if possible...

Gelephu Tshachu

I have heard badly about Gelephu Tshachu, and the images of it on media made it worse, but I didn't want to go back without seeing this infamous place. So a week ago I took my family there. It was about to be 6PM when we reached there and men were crowding at the gate for their turn. It was already dark and the place was depressing without proper lighting. I was yet to see the tshachu pools when men started gatecrashing and invading the women's turn. There was nobody at the gate to see to it. 

When all men have climbed over the gate and wall then came a young man who open the gate for me. He blew the whistle as if there was anybody left at all. At the pool the scene was very ugly, men were rushing in and women were trying to escape. I thought that was it. I had seen enough already.

I couldn't agree to myself. Am I going to leave Gelephu without experiencing Tshachu? Am a going to deprive myself of a lifetime experience? Am I going to live with that bad impression of that place forever? 

So last weekend I joined four of my training mates who are regular Tshachu visitors. We made it there before 8PM. There were hardly any people at the gate, which was already open. The ponds were packed and surprisingly there were a few men among the ladies. The whistle blew but the ladies showed no sign of coming out. So we readied ourselves and waited at the mouth of the pond that's reputed to be the hottest. There were over 13 people staring at us from the pond and I could hardly see any space to breath. Five of us were waiting in shorts. Then a man brushed across us and went in. I was annoyed at first but after watching him adjust himself among the ladies with good humor I began to like him.

My friends who were already senior visitors told me that we should subtly slip in like the man. One by one we joked our way into the pond and to my amazement the population in the pond increased to 18 and we were still comfortable. Everybody was so welcoming that I could think of no other people in the world who can be as accommodating and forgiving. I spend the next one hour enjoy the hot smelly water and funny company. There were different types of people coming in and going out, and the friendly atmosphere in the pond remained throughout. Every time a new member came in everybody moved a little bit to make room, and every time someone walks out everybody stood up to give way. 

Seriously I have no faith in the healing power of tshachu, I feel any hot water can have so much healing power if we can soak for so long. But what make Tshachu special to me is the social aspect of it. People from different places gather here and indulge in a very rustic and yet so Bhutanese form of social activity. Where in the world would stranger share a tiny bathtub in minimum cloth for hours? This should be one place to visit before you die.

Health Tips: Tshachu is mostly visited by people with different kinds of diseases, and therefore some caution has to be taken. 

Tokay Gecko is Valueless

Tokay Gecko was rumored to have the cure for AIDS and therefore was insanely valued in millions. Further there were many websites giving convincing details of sizes and prices of the lizard. I spent good amount of time on internet and yet I didn't encounter this hoax news until the Gelephu incident appeared in the news. This is a case of lack of media literacy at worst. The rumor is more than two years old, how did it suddenly become so viral in Bhutan?

Poor Tokay Gecko

The truth about the reptile will disappoint many people who must have gone too far to become a millionaire overnight. The lizard that is rumored to be priceless is actually valueless. It's neither endangered nor protected species. Taiwan alone imported 18 million Gecko in 2004, because it's used in traditional medicine, but curing AIDS is out of question as confirmed by World Health Organization. It can surely kill mosquitoes.

Dead Geckos to be used in Traditional Medicine 

Everybody heard about the buyers who are ready to pay millions for a Gecko that weighs over 300 gram but nobody actually sold one. Everybody is looking for buyers. There is no buyers. The best price known is USD 50, yes just 50. The online scam has sent hundred of thousands of people to jungles across the world, who must have removed every single gecko from the wild. This could lead to the extinction of the species given the depth at which the rumor has reached. The people responsible for fabricating this story are nothing less than sick Hitler for the lizard world.

Coming back to Bhutan, I am still wondering why the Gelephu incident even happened. The lizard is neither endangered nor protected yet the poor caretaker was arrested and slapped Nu.100,000 fine. This case added gravity to the rumor. Under normal circumstance would anybody be arrested for capturing a lizard? Why is everything that is (considered or rumored) priceless suddenly taken care by law? Is law greedy? Is law ignorant? Tokay Gecko didn't make any Bhutanese millionaire but it has generated lots of suspicion and hatred in the society and criminalized a few.

Please let ignorant people around you know that Tokay Gecko won't make them millionaire. Verify my claims with articles in The Bangkok Post and Global Voice, the only two authentic site that cared to report on the lizard. All the other sites are fake, created just to launch the rumor.

Rubber Forest

Gelephu is a whole new world for me. Born in the north I am up against many warm adventures in the south. I am making heavy use of Sundays that I have to myself and family because weekdays are insanely tight. I wish I had good reception of 3G connection at night to write down all the first hand southern experiences.

The following is the picture of the woods across the Gelephu High School campus. It's two acres of Rubber trees. I joined my friends during the lunch break to explore the woods and extract rubber. Kids were playing with rubber balls they made from the trees. I took a knife along to try out the cutting skill we learnt in high school geography.

Rubber Forest

The trees were laden with milky saps, just a small cut and it comes oozing out. It soon turns into rubber. Gelephu High School had the intention of adopting the trees and harvesting the rubber. They had called Indian experts for advice and found out that each tree could give them at least Nu.1500 a month. This could have made the school self reliant but the idea didn't sell well with NEC for whatever reason- so I learnt.

Oozing Milk

Raw Rubber Balls kids made

Looking at how children have exploited the trees, each tree carries hundreds ugly scars, the trees may not remain harvestable very soon. The question is why are these trees planted if they are not harvested? And even bigger question: If rubber trees grow in our country why haven't we invested in it?

For now, Gelephu High school uses that forest as assembly ground during the hot summers as natural air conditioner.

The First Bhutanese Nepali Movie- Made in Gelephu

My daughter has been watching the first (and perhaps the only) Bhutanese Nepali movies for quite some time, and as always she watched it over and over until she could repeat every dialogue and hum every music in it. When we were travelling south last weekend she slept till Tsirang and when she woke up she was upset, she wanted to go back.

That's when I remembered the movie. I told her that we were going to place where the Nepali movie was made. I promised her that I will show her all the locations she saw in the movie. That conversation excited her and after a while she happily went back to sleep.

It was in Sarpang we stopped for lunch and after we got back in car, she started insisting on going to the house she saw in the movie. Luckily I could recognize the spot where on comical romantic scene was shot, near Jigmeling. I could see the glow on her face as we passed by the place. After that she came back to the same demand of going to the home and the village in the movie... (Anyone knows where it is?)